The other day as I walked to the university I started thinking about the houses I was passing. There are some absolutely beautiful houses around the university; the types of places you would expect to see lining the coasts of Malibu, with yards shaded by palm trees and a magnificent view of the sea. But every single house is surrounded by a thick concrete wall, which then has spikes sticking out of it and is topped off by barbed wire or electric fencing. The prison-esque security adds quite a contrast to the beauty of the houses and the area. It actually made me feel very sad as I realized that every single house I passed was similarly protected, and most had the added security of a large, terrifying looking dog. I’m not sure why I’m sharing this rambling with you. I guess it struck me because it is so indicative of the current situation of South Africa. I would like to say that these measures are unnecessary and reveal the racism that is still prevalent here, but unfortunately I think they often are necessary. Every day in the news there are stories of violent break-in’s and similar examples of the rampant crime. The apartment complex that I live in is similarly protected, and I’d be lying if I said that it didn’t make me sleep more comfortably at night.
Unfortunately, these fortresses of barbed wire are also indicative of the state of society here. South Africans, though often hopeful and forgiving people, are also filled with fear. Particularly in the white neighborhoods, there seems to be a lack of sense of community and a lack of trust. I rarely see children out playing or neighbors chatting in the street. Everyone is inside by sunset at 7 pm. The exception to this rule is in the townships, where there is a very strong sense of community and property is not only not divided by large walls, but doesn’t seem to be separated at all. Children run freely and neighbors call out to each other from their open doors. This creates a stark contrast that is very revealing of the nature of South Africa and the clashing of different cultures. Of course there is also crime in townships, more so than in the posh neighborhoods surrounding the university, but there isn’t the overwhelming feeling of fear there. It makes me wonder about the future of this country and how the gap can be bridged.
I recently read a story by Nadine Gordimer, a South African writer, about a white family that kept adding more and more measures of protection as they heard more about the crime and violence in the country. Eventually they had the whole shebang… concrete walls, glass spikes, and barbed wire. One day their son, having just read the fairy tale of Repunzel, playfully decided to climb the wall, pretending to save the princess. The story ends abruptly with him getting caught up in the barbed wire that was meant to protect him from harm. Again, I’m not sure why I feel moved to share this, but I found this to be revealing of the way that protecting oneself so militantly also keeps you trapped and isolated from the rest of the world.
Unfortunately, I think this is what is happening in much of South Africa. There have been many instances when (white) South Africans have asked me incredulously why I would ever want to come to this country when they all want to leave it. They tell me that it is falling apart and it isn’t what it used to be, meaning under Apartheid when they were safer from violence. And so the “rainbow nation” makes the bumpy, difficult journey towards reconciliation. I do have hope in how far it has come since Apartheid ended 13 years ago, but there are still these moments of startling awakening when I realize how far it has yet to go.
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